Fashioning the Other: Sartorial Turquerie in Ancien Régime France
[Thesis]
Hughes, Brittany Lynne
Loffredo, Fernando
University of Colorado at Boulder
2020
99 p.
M.A.
University of Colorado at Boulder
2020
To play the 'Oriental Other'-to fashion oneself and surroundings in the manner of another culture-has often been an irresistible way to embody sumptuous luxury and subversive identity for the West. This thesis seeks to conceptualize the variety and depth of eighteenth-century French visual turquerie, as a subset of such Orientalist interests. Though extant examples of such are numerous and diverse in media, the three case studies herein look to the way orientalist fascinations manifested through dress and textiles in the 1748 Caravane du Sultan à la Mecque, Carle Van Loo's Turkish paintings for Madame de Pompadour's Château de Bellevue, and through Jean-Baptiste Greuze's Portrait of a Lady in Turkish Masquerade. Each study represents unique facets of signification-social group identity, personal and moralistic symbolism, as well as aesthetically pervasive trend. These case studies reveal the pervasive nature of sartorial imaginations and the complex meanings of dressing as the Other in eighteenth-century France.