Are you tired of cliche-ridden guidebooks packed with promotional fluff? Then move over to the IRREVERENT GUIDES-the travel series that no tourist board would dare to recommend. Look inside for the lowdown on: Hotels for the well-heeled and the sensibly-shodWhere to see monks' bones, "talking" statues, and lesser-known MichelangelosAttractions to line up for-and those to skipWhere-and when-to enjoy a proper cappuccinoShops to scour for the latest bags, boots, and papal vestmentsThe best piazzas, outdoor cafes, and discos for people watching, wine sipping, nightclubbing, and doing as the Romans.