Prologue -- I. Mohabharot -- Full chakra : Patna, Bodh Gaya -- East is east : Rajgir, Nalanda, back to Patna -- Golden temples, iron walls : Delhi, Amritsar, Harmandir Sahib and the Sikhs, Wagah and entering Pakistan, back to Delhi -- The shoulders of giants : Lahore, Taxila -- Crosshairs across worlds : back in Lahore, Islamabad, Peshawar, Multan, Quetta -- II. Iranzamin -- New familiar faces : Quetta Airport, Zahedan to Kerman, Rayen, Mashhad -- Nothing in my cloak but God : Neyshabur, Tus -- Rise and rise again : Yazd, Esfahan, Kashan -- A gate for all nations : Shiraz, Takht-e Jamshid -- Never too old : Ahvaz, Chogha Zanbil, Shush, Tehran, Tabriz -- About the author.