Includes bibliographical reference (pages 423-427) and index.
Facts for the traveler: Climate -- Tour operators -- Visas -- Getting there -- Customs -- Getting around -- Maps, books and newspapers -- Clothing -- Photography -- Health -- Accommodation -- Money -- Shopping -- Telecommunications -- Time zone -- Opening times -- Mosques, Museums and historical sites -- Calendar -- Festivals and holidays -- Geography: The plateau and the mountains -- The water problem -- Flora and fauna -- Agriculture, animal husbandry and fishing -- Industry -- Population -- Ethnic groups in Irân.
History: Prehistoric Irân -- The State of Elam: 3000-645 BC -- The coming of the Aryans -- The Achaemenian Empire: 550-330 BC -- Alexander the Great & the Seleucids -- The Parthians: 250 BC-AD 224 -- The Sasanians: AD 224-650 -- The Islamic Caliphate and the independent dynasties -- The Saljuq Turks -- The Mongol invasion & the Il-Khânid Dynasty -- The Turkoman Dynasties, Tamerlane & the rise of the Safavids -- The fall of the Safavids: Afshâr, Zand & Qâjâr Dynasties -- The Pahlavi Dynasty -- The Islamic Revolution & the Irân-Iraq War -- Irân today -- Chronology.
Islamic art and architecture -- Islamic architecture in Irân: Mosques, mausoleums, the Madraseh, the Dome -- Decoration: Brick and stucco, tilework -- Handicrafts: Persian carpets, textile printing, Woodworking and inlay, metalwork -- Religion: Pre-Islamic religions -- Zoroastrianism -- Zervanism -- Manicheism -- Mazdakism -- Shiʼism -- Moharram and Ashura.
Literary excerpts: Mantiq at-tayr on The Conference of the Birds -- Gohar Kordi on Being Born as a Woman -- Robert Ker Porter on The Magnificence of Futteh Ali Shah -- Azar Nafisi on Reading Lolita in Tehran -- Vita Sackville-West on Arriving in Tehrân -- Jalâl od-din Rumi -- William Dalrymple on His Search for Silk -- Robert Byron on The Mosque of Sheikh Lotfollah -- Hâfex on The Rose Garden of Persia.
Maps: Irân -- Natural features -- Achaemenian Persia -- Alexander the Great -- Parthian Empire -- Sasanian Empire -- Irân ethnolinguistic groups -- Tehrân -- North-east Irân -- Mashhad -- North-west Irân -- Tabriz -- Hamadân -- South-west Irân -- Esfahân -- Central Shirâz -- South-east Irân.
Special topics: Calligraphy and epigraphy in Irân -- Persian poetry -- Ferdosi and the Shâhnâmeh -- The Zurkhâneh -- Cyrus cylinder -- Food in Irân -- Music in Irân -- Religion in Irân -- The Ismâ ʼilis and the Assassins -- Orumieh: a stronghold of the Church of the East -- Queen Tomyris of the Massagetae -- Noruz -- Jiroft -- Modern cinema in Irân.
The City and Province of Tehrân: History -- City tour of Tehrân -- The city centre: Shemirân and the north of Tehrân -- Excursions from Tehrân -- The Northeast: the provinces of Semnân and Khorâsân -- Mashhad -- The Caspian Coast: Gilân Province -- Mâzanderân Province -- The Northwest: Zanjân and Azerbaijân -- Zanjân Province -- The Castles of the Assassins -- The Provinces of Azerbaijân -- Tabriz -- Takht-e Soleimân: Sasanian shrine & Mogol palace -- The Nestorian churches of Orumieh -- Western Irân: Kermânshâh -- Bisotun -- Hamadân -- Khuzestân Province -- The Irân-Iraq War -- Susa and the Susian Plain: Pre-Elamite susa -- The Elamite Empire -- Achaemenian Susa -- Visiting the site -- Chogha Zanbil -- Esfahân Province -- Kâshân -- The City of Esfahân -- North of the Bazaar: The pre-Safavid monuments -- The Safavid Royal City -- The Royal Square -- The Bazaar & Old Quarters to the north of the Royal Square -- Chahâr Bâgh Avenue -- The Zâyandeh-rud and Esfahâns bridges -- On the South Bank: Jolfâ -- Excursions around Esfahân -- Fârs Province -- Shirâz -- Persepolis (Takht-e Jamshid) -- Visiting Persepolis -- Naqsh-e Rostam -- Pasargadae -- Excursions from Shirâz -- The Southeast: the desert and the straits of Hormuz -- Yazd -- Zoroastrian community -- Kermân Province -- Bam: from ghost town to necropolis -- Hormuzgân Province -- Useful websites -- Hotels -- Language.
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"A stunning guide, packed with history, that no visitor to Iran should be without."--Christina Lamb, foreign affairs correspondent, Sunday Times, London.