Includes bibliographical references (pages 139-151) and index.
List of plates -- Publisher's acknowledgements -- Prologue: two poets and three Romes -- Paradise, grave, city, wilderness -- Old Rome and the modern mind -- The dying of the light -- Apollo deposed -- Far-off fields of memory -- The prisoner in the Vatican -- The second coming -- Notes -- Picture acknowledgements -- Index.
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"For a thousand years, Rome was enshrined in myth and legend as the Eternal City. No Grand Tour would be complete without a visit to its ruins. But from 1870, all that changed. A millennium ended as its solitary moonlit ruins became floodlit monuments on traffic islands, and its perimeter shifted from the ancient nineteen-kilometre wall with twelve gates to a fifty-kilometre ring road with thirty-three roundabouts and spaghetti junctions. This title is the first full investigation of this change. John Pemble musters popes, emperors, writers, exiles, and tourists, to weave a rich fabric of Roman experience."--