Introduction : Draping is an art ; Tools and preparation ; Terminology -- Part 1. Beginning draping : Draping the woven panel : History ; Exercises : Preparing the muslin; Draping the three grains; Visualizing muslin vs. fabrics; Dance tunic ; Draping project : Diane of Versailles's garment -- Dresses : HIstory ; Exercises : Dart variations; Classic bodice with bust dart; Bodice with French dart; Swing dress with no darts ; Draping project : Audrey Hepburn's dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's ; Variations : Setting the princess line; Joining two darts to create the princess line; Bodice with an armhole princess line -- Bustiers : History ; Exercises : Preparing the form for draping the bustier; Preparing the fabric and materials for the bustier ; Princess-line bustier; Bustier with Georgian shape ; Draping project : Christian Lacroix bustier -- Part 2. Intermediate draping : Skirts : History ; Exercises : Kilt; Skirt silhouettes; Straight skirt; A-line skirt; Bias circle skirt ; Draping project : Bill Blass pegged skirt ; Variations : Yoked skirt with gathers and flare -- Blouses : History ; Exercises : Draping the blouse; Peasant blouse; Gibson Girl blouse; Easy sleeve draft ; Draping project : Bill Blass organza ribbon blouse ; Variations : Tunic with bell sleeve ; Mandarin collar ; Peter Pan collar ; Blouse with peplum and classic bishop sleeve -- Pants : History ; Exercises : Draping and fitting pants; Harem pant; Hakama; Wide-let trouser with front tucks; Easy pant draft ; Draping project : Nanette Lepore cropped pant -- Knits : History ; Exercises : Cotton knit top with rigged neckline; Strapless knit top ; Draping project : Nanette Lepore halter-neck knit top ; Variations : Top with kimono sleeves -- Part 3. Advanced draping : Coats and jackets : History ; Exercises : Understanding shoulders; Chanel-style jacket; The two-piece sleeve; Easy two-piece sleeve draft ; Variations : Raglan jacket; Trench coat; Swing coat with shawl collar; Coat with egg-shaped silhouette -- The grand gown : History ; Exercises : Supporting the skirt; Corsets; Gown with ruffled petticoat; Draping project : Oscar de la Renta Gown ; Variations : Royal wedding gown -- Draping on the bias : History ; Exercises : Bias-draped camisole; Bias-chemise with princess line ; Draping project : Jean Harlow's dress in Dinner at eight -- Improvisational draping : History ; Exercises : Asymmetrical draped neckline ; Draping project : Viviene Westwood dress -- Glossary
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Draping is the art of using cotton muslin to create a fashion design directly on a mannequin. It is an essential skill for fashion designers. In this book, Karolyn Kiisel presents a series of step-by-step projects, creating real garments in classic styles, that are designed to develop skills from the most basic to more advanced techniques, starting with the basics of choosing and preparing the dress form for draping, moving through pinning, trimming, and clipping, and creating shape using darts and tucks, to adding volume using pleats and gathers, and handling complex curves. Advanced skills include how to use support elements such as shoulder pads, under layers, and petticoats, and how to handle bias draping. The book culminates with a chapter on improvisational skills